Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Shetland - Part 2

After a short and very light sleep (for fear of someone coming into the on-call room to find me ZZZing out in their bed Goldie-locks style) I packed the evidence of my stay and wandered into KP and Matt "quarters". As usual it reeked of curry as their flat mate has eaten nothing but Sommerfields Chicken Tikka Marsala for the last 2 months. According to the guys he has had one other thing on the menu in that time and KP prooved this by showing me a jar of Chicken Tikka Marsala sandwich spread! Mind you there was no bread that belonged to him so I must assume that he just eats it straight from the jar when he can't be arsed heating one of his TV dinners. I say TV dinners although he never comes out his room and has certainly never been observed watching TV.

ANYWAY, after Matt had left for work KP and I jumped in the car and went down to the Shetland Museum. It is a relatively new affair having only opened 6 months ago and surprisingly looks brand new despite catering to over 70,000 visitors since it's unveiling in June. It does an incredible job of outlining the history of the Island from days of the Picts through the various ages and owners up to the present day. The authenticity of the artifacts on display is apparent and the museum staff appear to have vast amounts of knowledge on the subject which they are only too happy to share with us punters.

It didn't take long to look round as we skim read everything and mostly talked about "how hardy the locals must be" and how glad we were that we didn't live here permanently. After that we stopped in one of the scarce Lerwick cafes and had lunch consisting of soup and sandwiches - simple but filling. We talked for ages then decided to drop the car back at the flat and walk to one of the local watering holes so I could se how it's done on the Island.

Flints was a dive, but the remaining sun shone weakly through the smokey windows providing the days only natural light so we took a corner window booth to bask in its feeble glow. We had a pint of Strongbow of all things, and talked into the darkening afternoon in this, what can only be described as, "Old Man's Pub". The time went by rapidly and we decided to head home.

It was overcast and spitting as we got back to the flat just in time to meet Matt. After plesantries and liquid refreshments we did a Fish and Chip run to the Happy Haddock which provided us with better than average chow. Not up to Australian standards but kicked the arse out of anything in Glasgow or remotely Central Belt-ish.

A night in front of the box saw us watching the very mediocre "SNL - Best of Dana Carvey" and then some Little Britain which was as always hillarious. Other hilarity came in the unlikey form of a book reading whereby I'd found a book in the bathroom called "Delete this at your Peril" and read, out loud, a chapter to Matt and KP. It was about a man trying to get talking lions sent to him as his reply to an email scam and various other comic anecdotes. A real laugh out loud book!

A restless night with strange noises from the bathroom followed by a late start from me and KP. The Up Helly A' preparations finally went on show today in town and we went down to get a program and see the initial build up to tonights partying.

It's all very secretive, in a Free Mason sort of way, but as far as I can tell this Viking Fire Festival consists of...

1. A main group (the Jarl Squad) of men (about 50) who have been preparing their viking costumes, firey torches, a wooden galley, skits (or sketches) and the 12 "Halls" for the last year.

2. Several other smaller groups or squads prepar their own costumes and skits but have nothing to do with the galley or arranging the halls (but their wives help at the halls).

3. The galley went on display this morning and tonight the street lights all go out and the fire dudes parade down the street in their costumes in front of the gathered townsfolk before chucking all the torches onto the galley and watching it burn whilst singing "The Galley Song".

4. The Halls open and are run by the wives/partners of the Jarl Squad and the other squads.

5. People go to the Hall that they have been invited to where drinking and eating abounds. We've scored tickets to the TA Hall which is run by the Head Jarl's wife so is the most sought after of the Halls. Don't know how Matt blagged these. Whenever we mention it to any of the local they look at us like we've just eaten their child. We don't mention it any more.

6. The squads go from Hall to Hall doing their skits and getting everyone up to dance and sing and drink.

7. This carries on until 8 AM and then the pubs open.

8. Zain misses his flight.

Anyway, hopefully number 8 won't happen but I'll fill you in on the rest of Up Helly A soon and hopefully there'll be some good pictures up soon.

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